Dr H Thanisch 'Berncasteler Doctor' Riesling GG 2022
4.3
HK$855
750ml
Bottle
Vintage Character The 2022 Berncasteler Doctor Riesling GG is a dry expression of one of the Mosel's steepest vineyards. The year brought prolonged summer heat and drought, especially hard on younger vines, and later rain with a late-September start to harvest required careful judgement of ripeness. The VDP's Mosel report notes that old vines, with deeper roots, coped better with water stress and that dry Grosses Gewächs wines were achieved even on demanding slopes. For this Doctor Riesling, 2022 shows as ripe fruit concentration beside a mineral, acid-driven dry finish, set in a vineyard with south-southwest exposure and weathered schist.
Tasting Profile & Food Pairing Unlike the estate's Auslese from the same site, the GG is the dry bottling. Citrus peel, lime, ripe orchard fruit and white peach come with a spicy, slate-like note and fine lees. The palate shows some breadth from 2022's warmth, yet high acidity keeps the fruit in focus through a firm finish, at a moderate 11.5% alcohol. Serve in a white-wine glass, cool rather than ice-cold, so the savoury detail of the site can emerge. Grilled trout, roast chicken with lemon or firm white fish with herbs have enough texture for the wine without making sweetness the theme. More stone fruit appears beside the citrus as the wine sits in the glass.
Winery Background The Erben Müller-Burggraef branch of Dr. H. Thanisch has cultivated Bernkastel Riesling for more than 375 years. Its Berncasteler Doctor parcel is extremely steep, faces south-southwest and sits on stony, loamy weathered schist. The Doctor is celebrated as one of Germany's great white-wine sites, and the Grosses Gewächs designation marks the top dry wines from such classified vineyards. The estate describes extensive hand work on its slopes, and Maximilian Ferger makes the wines. They are kept in a historic cellar carved beneath the vineyard.