Vintage Character The 2021 season in Burgundy was one of its more testing recent years. Spring frost and slow early growth gave way to warm, successful flowering, then rain from late June into early August increased disease pressure. Dry weather and a north wind in mid-August improved ripening before a mid-September harvest. For Aligoté grown in the Hautes Côtes above Pommard, that sequence gives a lively rather than lush white: the cool, difficult parts of the year favour freshness, while the late dry interval gave the fruit definition. It differs clearly from the warmer, more abundant 2023 vintage of the same wine.
Tasting Profile & Food Pairing The estate describes Les Fâts as pale gold, fresh and mineral, with floral notes and a little roundness from six months in oak. Green apple, lemon, pear and white blossom lead the nose. On the dry palate bright acidity meets a modest, oak-softened texture, with fine lees adding body, and the finish is clean and lightly stony rather than buttery, at 12% alcohol. Oysters, simply grilled fish or goat cheese suit its freshness, and a little time out of the refrigerator helps the floral side show. It is particularly good at the start of a meal, or as the classic base for a kir.
Winery Background The Buffet family settled in Volnay in 1692, and Marc-Olivier Buffet, the eighth generation, has led the domaine since 2005. The producer says its Bourgogne Aligoté vines stand in the Hautes Côtes at Pommard, rather than on the lower Volnay ground used for its regional red. The estate favours living soils, avoids herbicides and uses biodynamic methods on certain plots while converting towards organic farming. Grapes are picked by hand and the wines are aged in the estate's vaulted 18th-century cellars. These practices and the Aligoté identity set Les Fâts apart from the domaine's many Pinot Noir Premiers Crus.