Vintage Character Bibi Graetz 'Testamatta' 2023 is a red Toscana IGT from Bibi Graetz, made from Sangiovese. In the Florence hills, heavy winter rain secured vine water reserves for 2023. Spring and summer were hot but had sufficient rain, while pronounced day-to-night temperature differences during harvest helped Sangiovese reach maturity without sacrificing freshness. The estate describes a smaller, fruit-driven and elegant crop, so this is not simply a hot-year wine: its aromatic precision rests on both moisture and cooler nights. How the grapes were selected and matured gives each Bibi Graetz red its own shape.
Tasting Profile & Food Pairing The 2023 producer account emphasises unusually pure fruit, vibrant acidity and finesse in Testamatta. Red cherry, wild strawberry and violet lead the nose, with stone and a discreet old-oak spice behind them. The palate is dry and finely structured, its tannin giving length without a heavy, sweet centre. Roast duck, porcini and herb-crusted lamb engage that combination of lift and depth. A young bottle may benefit from careful decanting, although too much warmth can obscure its transparency. The smaller crop brought concentration, and the balance between ripe Sangiovese fruit and the acidity kept through the season is what stands out.
Winery Background Testamatta means 'crazy-head' and is Bibi Graetz's old-vine, 100% Sangiovese interpretation of the Tuscan hills. For 2023, hand-picked parcels came from five named vineyards: Vincigliata, Olmo, Londa, Lamole and Montefili. Selection happens both in the vineyard and at the winery; native yeasts ferment the lots in open small barriques, larger casks or steel according to scale. After fermentation, the wine spends 18 months in old oak barriques. This multi-site selection differs from Soffocone's single vineyard and from Colore, for which only particular barrels and old-vine parcels are selected.