Francois Buffet Volnay 'Clos des Chenes' Premier Cru 2023
4.3
HK$765
750ml
Bottle
Vintage Character The 2023 Volnay 'Clos des Chênes' Premier Cru grew through a season of plentiful fruit set, repeated summer showers and an abrupt late-August heatwave. High temperatures slowed ripening briefly and complicated early September picking, and across Burgundy careful selection of Pinot Noir mattered. The marl and limestone of this vineyard give Clos des Chênes a natural firmness within Volnay, so 2023's ample fruit meets a distinctly structured site. The vintage is more generous than the cooler 2021, but the wine's identity goes well beyond sweetness of fruit: it rests on structure and a persistent, savoury finish.
Tasting Profile & Food Pairing Black fruit is the estate's aromatic guide for Clos des Chênes. In this ripe year black cherry and blackberry lead, followed by dried rose, earth, clove and a gentle spice accent as air reaches the glass. The dry palate is broad, then gains shape from tannins that are present without being coarse. A persistent finish matters more than immediate softness here, and this is the Volnay Premier Cru in the range that asks for substantial food. Duck breast, coq au vin or a simply roasted beef rib balance its depth. Serve slightly below room temperature and give a young bottle time to open.
Winery Background The Buffet family's connection with Volnay extends to 1692, and Marc-Olivier leads the estate today. Its own description of Clos des Chênes links the site's marl-limestone ground to power, black-fruit aromas and ageworthiness. The name remembers an ancient oak wood, gone for several centuries. In the vineyards the domaine avoids herbicides, uses cover crops and compost, and applies biodynamic approaches to selected plots as organic conversion proceeds. Grapes are picked by hand and sorted before ageing in oak. In 2023 the site's firm line is a useful partner to the season's abundance of fruit.